If you’ve come today in search of something waistline-friendly, I have one word for you.
For what I’m about to share with you is ALL the treats. Chocolate? Check. Drippy, salty, burnt-caramel sauce? Check. Pecan nuts, butter, cinnamon and pillowy soft brioche? All right here, people, piled into my favourite bundt tin and baked in the steam oven until it’s golden, glistening and smells so good you burn your fingers trying to pick little bits off it as it comes out of the oven.
A few weeks ago I came across this beauty, intriguingly titled 'gorilla bread'. After further research – ahem, disappearing into the black hole that is Pinterest – I discovered a) there are literally thousands of variations on this delight spanning the depths of the internet, mostly under the moniker 'monkey bread' (why did no-one TELL me about it?! Now I feel like the loser who didn’t realise gourmet donuts were a thing for the first five years they were ‘in’), and b) most of the recipes begin with a base of canned refrigerator ‘biscuits’, which don’t exist in Australia. I’m led to believe the origins of gorilla/monkey bread sit firmly in the USA (oh, land of the tooth-achingly sweet baked goods), and the name stems from the fact you pick it apart after baking, somewhat as a monkey picks apart its food. Given the burnt-fingers scenario above, the name seems apt. Whatever you call it though, I was sold on the idea of reworking it as a combi steam oven recipe and have not been able to stop thinking about it ever since.
In a world of low fat, no fat, sugar and carb free green foods, this ridiculous creation has no place. But in my house, sometimes we go all in and throw the moderation out the window. Mostly my nutritionist brain wins out and we eat pretty well – I serve lots of vegies, cut the sugar down in most of my baked goods, try not to use too much fat in cooking or eat too many carbs – but really it’s just so I don’t feel too guilty spending the better part of a day making something like this from time to time.
I feel obliged to discuss the ‘baking with yeast’ thing here, given I speak to A LOT of people who say they’re scared of cooking with the stuff. If you’re one of them, I can tell you having a steam oven will make it much easier to build confidence with yeast baking. As with most things in life, practice certainly helps, but your steam oven’s dough proving setting (or just a low temp steam setting) takes some of the guesswork out of it.
The biggest problem people tend to have with yeast doughs is that they aren’t sure how long to prove/rise the dough, or what it should look and feel like when it’s risen properly. I can’t give you a definitive blanket answer to this because the ratio of sugar, yeast, liquid and flour will always affect things (and also because, though I love baking with them, I am not a yeasted dough expert!), but your steam oven will let you control temperature, which means the dough will rise pretty consistently and be the same each time you make the same recipe. In general, sugary doughs like the one in today’s recipe will rise quickly because there’s lots of food for the yeast to consume and grow. Heavy grain or sourdough loaves take a lot longer and actually I prefer to prove these overnight in the fridge to improve their flavour (but that’s a post for another day). The simplest guide to ‘what should my proved dough look like’ is this: if you gently push your finger onto the dough and it makes an indent which springs back in a couple of seconds, that’s perfect. If the imprint just stays there and not much else happens, you need to prove a little longer. If the whole lot deflates like a sad balloon as soon as you touch it, it’s over-proved, which means (sadly) your baked goods will come out of the oven pretty dense and pancake-like.
In the case of this monkey bread, it’s the perfect beginners yeast dough because it only needs one prove instead of the usual two, and you can do that in thirty minutes flat in the steam oven. Almost foolproof! Overall it’s not the fastest recipe to make and does require a bit of attention and several steps, but if chocolatey, cinnamon-y, caramel-loaded baked goods are your thing it’s a really fun weekend project (side note: the ingredient list looks enormous, but several of the items are repeats – sugar, butter, salt – for the different parts of the recipe). Read through the whole recipe before you start, familiarise yourself with the steps and get going.
I really hope you’ll try baking with yeast, especially if it’s something which usually scares you off. It’s incredibly rewarding and always makes me feel really accomplished in the kitchen.
See you soon (with something a little more virtuous to cook in your steam oven to balance things out!).
And also: I've finally put together something resembling a 'proper' resources page! It's got some great links to other steam oven cooking information from around the web, plus lists of my favourite books and kitchen items. Check it out here. Next up, more info and articles for the 'steam oven info' page - if there's anything you'd especially like covered, let me know!
Steam Oven Monkey Bread with Chocolate, Pecans and Burnt Caramel
Makes one large cake (loaf?), serves 8-12.
I’ve gone really heavy on the instructions here, but basically what you’re doing is making a brioche dough, rolling bits of it in butter and cinnamon sugar, baking and topping with caramel sauce. None of it is hard but it’ll take you a good couple of hours from start to finish.
I made this in my favourite bundt pan, which I purchased in San Francisco several years ago, carefully stashed in my suitcase and proceeded to take on a journey through the US and Europe before it made it back to my kitchen. You might call me crazy but I really wanted a ‘proper’ Nordic Ware pan for its heaviness and beautiful pattern, and just happened to stumble across one in a store there. They are horrendously expensive here and despite being much cheaper elsewhere in the world, shipping is a killer, so in my crazy food tourist mind that seemed to be the solution! Whatever, it makes me happy every time I use it, and is all the more treasured for having been carted around the planet. If you don’t have a bundt pan I’m sure this would bake up fine as a loaf, though you might want to split it between two tins because this recipe makes a large quantity.
The chocolate and pecans are totally optional but I figure if you’re going all out, might as well really do it properly. I did start with more of each than stated below, but it turns out you can have too much of a good thing because I literally could not pack them all in between the layers of dough!
For the caramel sauce, if burnt caramel isn’t your thing just make the recipe as written but don’t cook the sugar quite as dark (my husband thinks I should have just stuck to regular caramel but I liked the hint of bitterness). And you can use a bit less salt if you don’t want a salted caramel – try ½ tsp instead.
Ingredients for the dough:
7g (1 sachet, or 2½ tsp) instant dry yeast
1½ cups (375ml) full fat milk, heated to lukewarm
¼ cup (65g) caster sugar
1/3 cup (80g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tsp salt
About 5 cups (600g) bread flour (normal ‘plain’ flour will work ok here, but in general for breads you want something with a higher protein content – my plain flour is about 9.5% protein and my bread flour is 12.5%)
Ingredients for assembling:
½ cup (125g) butter, melted and cooled
1 cup (250g) caster sugar
1 tbs ground cinnamon
¾ cup (100g) pecan nuts, roughly chopped
¾ cup (150g) dark chocolate chips
Ingredients for the burnt caramel sauce:
1 cup (250g) caster sugar
½ cup (125g) unsalted butter, chopped
1/3 cup (80ml) pouring cream
1 tsp salt
Make the dough: Mix the yeast, warm milk and a couple of teaspoons of the sugar in a small bowl (the milk should not be hot! Just blood temperature, otherwise you’ll kill the yeast). Set aside for 5 minutes for the yeast to activate – it should look slightly frothy on top when you return. Technically you don’t need to do this step with the instant yeast, but just in case your packet of yeast is dead (like my first one was when I tried to make this!), it’s well worth the extra step so you don’t waste an entire batch of dough.
Put the yeast/milk mixture and the rest of the dough ingredients into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, and mix for 7-8 minutes until a smooth and elastic dough forms. It will be pretty sticky (mine didn’t come away from the sides of the bowl), but if it just looks like a wet batter rather than a stretchy dough you may need an extra bit of flour.
Put the bowl of dough into your steam oven and turn on the dough proving setting to 38⁰C. If you don’t have a dough proving setting, just put the regular steam setting onto 38⁰C. Prove the dough for 30 minutes – it should have roughly doubled in size. Remove dough, turn the oven off and leave the door ajar so it can cool down before you do the baking step.
While the dough is proving, make the caramel sauce: Put the sugar in a heavy pan over medium high heat and let it melt. Swirl the pan occasionally but don’t stir with a spoon. What you’re looking for is to catch the sugar and remove from heat just as it begins to smoke – some of it will look very dark but have faith (if it’s all completely black and smoking a lot you’ve gone too far!). Immediately add the butter, cream and salt, and reduce the heat to medium. Stir until the butter melts and it becomes a shiny, smooth sauce, then remove from heat and set aside.
To assemble your bread, mix the sugar and cinnamon together in a small bowl and make sure your butter is ready in another bowl, melted but not too hot, because you’ll be dipping your fingers into it pretty soon.
Turn the dough out (I have an incredibly cheap and handy plastic scraper for sticky doughs like this) onto a lightly floured surface and gently press it down to knock out any huge air bubbles. Use a knife (or your handy scraper!) to cut the dough into little pieces, each about the size of a ping pong ball. You could pinch off small amounts and roll into balls, but I found cutting much quicker and the round shape isn’t essential given they’ll be all squashed together in the tin. I forgot to count but guess I ended up with about 60 pieces.
Working reasonably quickly, take one piece of dough at a time and dip it into the melted butter, then roll in the cinnamon sugar. Drop the pieces randomly into your tin as you go, and once you’ve got a layer on the bottom, sprinkle some of the pecans and chocolate over the dough (I ended up with three layers of chocolate and pecans interspersed through the bread, which gave a nice distribution). Continue to use up all the dough, chocolate and pecans.
Pour about 1/3 of the caramel sauce over the dough, and set your tin inside a solid baking tray.*
Put the tin + tray into your steam oven, set it to 180⁰C (combination steam). If your oven has variable steam settings, use 50-60%. IMPORTANT: you don’t need to preheat, as the bread will do a bit more rising while the oven heats. This removes the need for a second prove. Cook for a total of 30-35 minutes (including the preheating time), until the loaf is golden and puffy. It’s a little hard to tell if it’s cooked all the way through, but I took mine out after exactly 30 minutes and it was perfect.
Leave in the tin for 5-6 minutes, then turn out onto a plate, top with as much of the remaining caramel sauce as you dare (any leftover will keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge and makes for great ice cream topping), and serve warm. If you don’t have 8-12 willing eaters on the first go around (or a husband with colleagues who will happily consume half of the finished product), it reheats very nicely.
* Or, be like me and cook straight on the wire rack of your steam oven, necessitating a giant clean-up job later because some of the sauce overflowed the tin. Seriously, give yourself the insurance of the extra baking tray because wiping cold grease and solidified sugar off the floor of the oven is not my idea of fun.
But I don’t have a steam/combi-steam oven! You can certainly make this without one, but you’ll need to use a bit more guesswork when proving the dough. Basically, you’ll need to cover the bowl, put it somewhere quite warm and wait anywhere up to a couple of hours for the dough to double in size. Alternately, cover and put in the fridge for about 12 hours where it will prove very slowly but just as effectively. When baking, the temperature remains the same but you might need a few more minutes, say 35-40.